Phoenix

I flew into Phoenix on 13th May. I had visited Arizona before but returned to tick off some specific things. In Phoenix, it was Frank Lloyd Wright – the American architect probably most well known as the architect of the Guggenheim Museum in New York. Lloyd Wright spent most of his working life in Chicago and at Taliesin (his country estate in Wisconsin). When he was 70, he was advised to spend the winter in warmer climates for health reasons. This led his to purchase some land just outside Scottsdale, Arizona. in 1933, assisted by his apprentices, he started construction in the desert and named it Taliesin West (franklloydwright.org/taliesin-west/).

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In addition to being his winter home, it was also the winter home of his architecture school. Lloyd Wright spent all his winters there until his death in 1959. The architecture school continues and splits its year with winters in Taliesin West and summers in the original Taliesin.

We toured the whole complex and were allowed to take pictures all lver, except inside the draft studio.

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Originally, there was no glass in any of the buildings and the roofs were just stretched canvas. His wife’s sleeping quarters have been restored.

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He relented later and did install glass, but this was more to stop the wildlife coming in than for the weather. All the furniture in the complex is replicas of his original designs. This is his living room.

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Everyone on the campus ate together in a communal dining room when the bell was rung.

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One of his ideas was to use small doors and entry spaces to force people to squat down when entering a room in order that they would then stand up to appreciate the space in the room. This is the front door to his living quarters.

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He loved films and included a cinema\theatre in the complex as well.

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He also liked to include other memorabilia that he had acquired.

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The buildings and gardens are maintained by his foundation and the school of Architecture is still based here during the winter months.

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I also visited the Arizona Biltmore hotel in Phoenix. It is not a pure Lloyd Wright project but described as “as product of architect Albert Chase McArthur’s vision and Frank Lloyd Wrights inspired guidance”.

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I had breakfast in the restaurant named after both architects.

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It opened in 1929 and claims that every US President since Herbert Hoover has stayed here. I noted that they hadn’t included Mr Obama in the list so I’m not sure if this record has been broken or not. Trump has probably stayed here at some time as it has a golf course. Irving Berlin is also said to have penned “White Christmas” while lounging by the Catalina Pool.

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Marilyn Monroe was also a regular and loved the pool. I loved the interiors.

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Over the years, there has been much discussion about how much Lloyd Wright’s is actually responsible for. I could see some of his ideas all over the property but these could always have been placed here later.

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After a whistle stop visit to Phoenix, I headed out to Tucson. I passed BioSphere II (www.biosphere2.org) on route but didn’t stop as I have visited before. It is worth a visit just for its amusing history. It was built in the late 1980’s with a view to hosting a year long closed system project i.e. where the inhabitants were completely isolated from the outside world. The year long project was halted after only a few weeks when the Biosphere proved unable to support life in the longer term and the 4 inhabitants fell out with each other. A second attempt also failed. Things weren’t improved by the making of the film Bio-Dome (www.imdb.com/title/tt0115683) starring Pauly Shaw and  Stephen Baldwin. The appalling film lampooned the what had happened and was also filmed at the BioSphere.

It is now part of the University of Arizona and being used for research. I note they are very vague about its early history on their website.

 

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