After Quito, Cuenca is Ecuador’s most important and beautiful city. Many prefer it to Quito with its more agreeable weather, cleaner streets and more laid back feel. It is about 300 miles south of Quito.

I opted to split my stay between 2 very different properties. The first was Hostal Posada del Angel (www.hostalposadadelangel.com). Located near the centre of the old city, it is a pretty and clean hostel with a good breakfast.

Cuenca’s historic centre is a UNESCO world heritage site with some buildings dating back to the sixteenth century, many of them churches. The one that I was most impressed with was the Cathedral de la Inmaculada Conception or the new cathedral. It wasn’t its age or beauty that impressed me, but its immense size.

 

Inside, it was massive. It has three domes whereas St Paul’s in London just has one!

Next door was a courtyard, typical of many buildings in the city, that has now been converted into restaurants.

Just around the corner was this pretty square with the local flower market.

There were amazing buildings all around.

Many of the shops and cafes in the historic area occupy the original commercial premises that just open onto the street. Courtyards have been converted into cafes and restaurants. Although this gave the appearance of simple shopping facilities, this is not the case. Ecuador is one of the richer countries in South America that I visited. Many of these shops were selling high end fashion goods and top end flat screen TVs.

I first heard about Cuenca from a friend’s blog (cyclecuba1.tumblr.com/../actually) and in particular about its Panama hat industry. I followed in her footsteps and visited the Museo Del Sombrero De Paja Toquilla.

The family still make Panama hats here.

They have a huge range on display with the more expensive ones locked away in a separate room.

The local market hall is a good place for a cheap meal.

I opted for roast pork, potatoes and salad from Dona Elsita.

Many of the buildings are lit at night. With Christmas approaching more colour was introduced.

Even on the Rio Tomebamba.

Part way through my time in Cuenca, I changed accommodation and moved just along the street to the Maison Alcazar (www.mansionalcazar.com).

The hotel has been converted from a private residence that once belonged to the family of a past President of Ecuador – Luis Cordero.

I had a room looking over the gardens at the back of the hotel.

There was live music in the historic part of the city most evenings I was there.

Heading south, and leaving the  old city down “La Escalinata”, you cross the Rio Tomebamba and come into the new part of town.

There is nothing of architectural, or other, interest here but the upcoming wealth is apparent. Unfortunately, many of the homes here are hidden behind high walls and electric fences.

There is a modern shopping mall – Mall del Rio (www.malldelrio.com). I was pleasantly surprised to find only a relatively small number of the big US brands present. This is also the place to come to for the best restaurants and bars – those in the old city being mainly of the tourist variety. Walking around elsewhere, I came across contemporary dance studios and interior design studios. Life, for some at least, seems pretty good here.

I am aware that Cuenca is now a popular location for the US and Canadian retired community, but this wasn’t obviously apparent outside the touristic hotspot of the old city. Having joined the crowds and done the tourist thing for my first couple of days in town, I spent the rest of my visit away from the crowds and enjoyed it tremendously.